When you think about gourmet food one imagines luxurious restaurants with fine cover and menu.However, Ensenada, Baja California, has a culinary legend that was not born precisely in an ostentatious place.This is the Guerrero, a small and humble cart that offers in the street the most exquisite delicacies of the Pacific Ocean.
A simple aluminum cart, of those that abound in different cities of the country and that depending on its location offer tacos, corn or cakes.But the Guerrerense is a separate thing, her specialty is the seafood, that this city arrives in Montones.What is not so easy is the seasoning of those who have made this traveling place one of the most famous in Mexico and the world.A woman of literary name: Sabina Flag.
Better known as La Güerita, Sabina is the business star.She is a small woman, with short, narrow and little curly hair.Flirtatious, something that cannot be missing in its appearance is its red lipstick, that which stands out in each of its photographs.In fact, he agrees to start the Millennium Sunday interview, only after painting his lips.
His perfume is unmistakable, unique.Although Sabina spends all day between oyster and clams, she retains that peculiar smell of older ladies, sweet and strong at the same time.Causes your customers to hug her before leaving the premises.And as part of the ritual, after the hug comes the photo of the memory.Thus, Sabina has gathered hundreds, thousands of photographs, some with famous people, others with simple diners, but she assures that all are important.[Object]
He has a contagious smile and a character that achieves, in a few minutes, throwing anyone into the bag.Because yes, although the cart is full of diners, Sabina takes time to serve them personally.And it is little to say, actually mima them.It seems that he knows his clients for many years.Knows what everyone needs.Some of the napkins, others recommend what to eat and to what to drink.And with other talks for several minutes, the same with whom they are regular at the Guerrero as with whom he visits the cart for the first time.
Despite so much fame, affection and recognition, Sabina says that success is something that was never among her plans.“I did not start in this business thinking:‘ Oh, I'm going to be famous and I'm going to travel a lot! ’.I just needed what to get my three children forward.
"Does you like to be famous?"
—It's not famous, we are all who work here, because this is my effort, my husband, my children and the boys who help us.Some neighbors tell me: "Oh, that one day of these will change with such fame!".But I'm still the same as 30 years ago.Anyway I have to work, pure fame does not feed me.
39 -year -old honeymoon
Sabina is originally from Huitzuco, Guerrero, of the so -called Tierra Caliente.He arrived in Ensenada 39 years ago, when he was recently married to Luis Eduardo Oviedo.And what was a simple visit to his in -laws, became his new home and his future.
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The Guerrerense was not always the most famous seafood semi -final local.To get to that point, Sabina had to experience first with another type of food, through drowned cakes and even the pibil pig.The parents of her husband had a cart of Almeja, a 55 -year -old business cart, of which 25 has been in the same place where she is now located: on the corner of Alvarado and First Avenue.It was there that Sabina learned to work the seafood, although "the touch," he says, has always had it.
If a foreign tourist visits Ensenada and wishes to find the famous cart, he does not need to resort to GPS technology or dozens of applications that flood the Internet.Just ask, at any point in this city, where is the Guerrerense?And it will come easy.Not only because it is located on one of the most important and busy avenues of the municipality, but because it is a must for any visitor who likes good food.
RENEWED OR DIE
Currently the Guerrerense cart offers 14 different types of ceviche, among which one of fish with mango stands out;All possible combinations of cold cocktails and, recently, the menu included golden empanadas.But what does this place make so special?Sabina, her husband and three children (Edgar, Eduardo and Marina) have managed to create the perfect combination between gourmet food and street food, because here you can eat a toast from 18 pesos and what the client receives in return is an experienceincomparable gastronomic.
Despite the wide offer, Sabina proudly boasts "the champion", the toast that has earned several national and international awards: the hedgehog with clam.What does it taste like?It is something that cannot be described.The sensations range from the fresh and salty of the sea, to the sweet and enchilad, which of course changes depending on the sauce with which you want to accompany.
Salsa is another indispensable ingredient.Mrs. Sabina personally prepares the 13 different sauces that are placed in small molcajetes in the cart so that the client has them, or that are sold in small bottles with a value of 100 pesos."One is called" from the garden "because it is made with the chiles that I reap in my orrtite.Another is "that of the mother -in -law" because it is sweet.There is also "El Diablito" for those who like to enchilate, "he presumes.
Sabina and her dishes have become very famous for the recognition of their customers, but also for that of famous chefs, such as the American Anthony Bourdain, who seeks to export the guerriean to New York, a project that could be completed in 2017.“He has the idea of creating a large food center in which the best street food chefs in the world come together.Something like what is done in Singapore.But not only that, the people who wish will be able to buy the ingredients with whom we cook ".[Object]
“For us it will be a great honor but also a great responsibility to represent Mexico abroad.We are sure that we will do well, because my mother has always taught us to work with a spirit of service and with a big smile, and with that mentality we go there, ”says Mariana, Sabina's youngest daughter, who always accompanies herto your trips and to the events where you must present.They have been together in distant countries, such as Singapore, for example, where the Guerrerense won the first sales prize during the World Street Food Congress, in 2013, among other awards he has received.
When he is not in Ensenada, Sabina travels somewhere in Mexico or the world teaching conferences and courses to the best chefs.Before saying goodbye he remembers that he still has many things to do, but for now, continuing to work on what he likes is the most important.
He says that although her children plan to open another restaurant, but she will never leave the cart.Assures that what keeps her with mood, and is also part of her success, is to share with others her culinary secrets, because she does not stop learning.