In the pandemic time there was not much to choose from in terms of makeup.That the mask covered the lower third of the face left all the bets to a single letter, to make up the eyes.
It was corroborated by the captify smart search platform with data in the hand: worldwide, between January 30 and May 19, 2020, the e-commerce search for eye makeup products rose 52% while the searchLipstick has dropped 8%.The famous Lipstick Index was then unseed by Eyeliner Index.
However, the relaxation in the use of the mask has brought with it the expected return of the lip bars.And, with him, the memory of those unwritten standard of makeup that states that if their eyes 'strong' are made up, with shadows, showy shows and Type Smoky Eye types, you have to forget to raise the tone of the mouth.
When the aesthetics of the 90s was in full swing, in the street there were at least two controversial fashion matters between the youth of the time.
One was the length of the pants: they got so long that they dragged, to despair of parents who shouted in the sky every time they saw how their offspring cleaned the sidewalks with the bass of their jeans.If the shoe was seen, and we no longer say the ankle, the Hortened was assured (we remember today that all the long pants, from Culotte to anklers to extralargos coexist in peaceful harmony 'fashion').
The other thorny theme was to combine navy and black blue.Remember S.M., teenager then, that the uniform of his institute was composed of a Scottish skirt in red and blue and marine sweater, and that he never occurred to him to wear neither half or black socks (and if he could avoid color in the shoes, then better).Isn't this chromatic duo one of the favorites of fashion experts?Not to mention another combination that is erected today as the most daring to those elegant: that of pink and red ("kick in the eye", was said).
Although we have come to talk about beauty here, these examples serve to give us a first idea of how much the great unwritten norm of real base makeup 'can have behind.
Baltasar González Pinel, makeup artist and artistic director of Mac in Europe, the Middle East, Africa, India and Russia, in addition to co -founder of the Bogart Makeup makeup academy, that the statement that they should not 'load' makeup eyes eyes eyes eyes eyes eyes eyes eyes eyes eyes EyesAnd lips of the same time does not have an aesthetic basis or there is any 'scientific' foundation when talking about it in terms of "relationships between compositional graphics."
"At the makeup level, the face is nothing but an area where effects are composed. When talking about compensating the graphic weights we refer to distributing the weight or graphic information of visual interest (which translates to how much and how each area is made up)Throughout the face in general. But there is no law or psychoperceptive effect that demonstrates that carrying an area, another, or both, or decompensating them on the contrary, part of the observer's attention is eliminated by these areas, "clarifies the makeup artist.
Yes, it is true that there are some places on which an observer stops, and those are eyes and lips, that's why they make up more.And from there the reason for the dichotomy we are talking about.
"The expressive information that you extract from the eyes is much greater than the one you get from your lips; however, the lips are, from the aesthetic point of view, so beautiful, that we culturally have another focus of attention in them. NoThey are as 'exciting' as the eyes when transmitting, but they are aesthetic, "says González Pinel.
That said, there are no colors to kill or do not stick with each other, you just have to feel comfortable with them.If you feel identified with green shadows and red lips, or with a smoked black and burgundy mouth, nothing prevents them from carrying them.
We talked about the fashion of the 90s and their unwritten codes but followed.And we resume fashion to explain the reason for the false rule of makeup that concerns us."To democratize fashion and beauty and make them 'digestible' by the general public, laws have been needed, rules, so that those not specialists in the matter understand them and adhere to them," says Baltasar González Pinel."In makeup, not putting the focus on eyes and lips at the same time seems to have logic, but disguises itself as an infallible norm when it has no basis," he continues.
You could seek, in some way, its origin in response contrary to the excess of the 80s, when it was more in makeup (and in everything), when eyes and lips were white canvases to fill with colors ... but only ifIt gives us to start looking for 'guilty'.
The dark reverse of this 'law' of makeup lacking a plot -and is not the only one, another is that black hardens the look when, according to makeup artist Iván Gómez de Chanel, "with a black eyeliner line you change and improvementsEye without the hand of the makeup artist "- is that it has aesthetic consequences at the social level, because when trying to regulate makeup, something more serious is incurred, which is to deprive a person to express himself freely.
"As a society, the rule should be: if you want to make your eyes make your lips a lot, do it; if you want to make your lips make your lips a lot and little, do it; if you want to do both, do it. Today I don'tThere is only one style, or two, or three ... ", defends González Pinel.
The makeup artist is not the only one who maintains that makeup should only be a particular expression of each individual, as seconded in 1999 in his writing 'Doing Looks'liz Frost, Professor of the UWE of Bristol in expert in Social Sciences:"It is an identity process that has meanings such as the pleasure and creative expression of oneself."
The problem is total freedom in aesthetic decision making does not exist: no matter howSome models and stereotypes whose catalog, fortunately, is extended little by little (fashion brands signs senior models or with measures that leave that 90-60-90, the Cana is now beautiful ...) andIt becomes more flexible ... "and in this disassemble stereotypes we finalGonzález Pinel argues.
As British Psychological Elaine Slater also defends, "makeup is what you do of it, it is an choice."And Gonzale Pinel adds: "The only rule should be that makeup flowforce".
Olivier Echaudemaison, who was Guerlain's artistic director for more than 20 years, recalls in his book 'Color of My Life' that Nefertiti, of accredited beauty, and 14 centuries before Christ, enhanced his eyes with Kôhl and his lips with Carmín.Let's see who is the handsome who would now try to explain that nothing to put the focus of attention in both areas.
It is not the only historical case that carries the opposite.If wearing both spotlights produced an aesthetic disconnection of beauty, there would be no traditional geisha makeup.
And what would be of classic, traditional and elegant makeup, accepted as universal, which is the combination of red lips, black eyeliner with well -marked eyelashes and eyebrows, how fashionable it was in the 40s and 50s?Marilyn Monroe or Rita Hayworth wouldn't have been the same without him.
Because every decade of the twentieth and twenty -first centuries it has had its 'excesses'."From the 10s to 30 in 1900, the cosmetic industry was rediscovered: even the eyebrows were made up of green or purple. And Josephine Baker was the queen of the Ojo+Dark Lip duo," recalls Baltasar González Pinel.
It is true that in the 60s everything were eyes, but what eyes: the Twiggy eyelaces, the shadows of pastel colors, the banana eyeliners that rediscovered all lines that are in one eye ...
In the 70s there is a transition, where the eyes of the Veruschka model are seen in the 60s that a road to the 80Colors in eyes and lips, not to mention the coloretes, directed the trend of horror vacui ...
And if we look at the 90s in detail, as González Pinel points out, although minimalism and naturalness looked like the norm, it is the time of shadows in gloss finish combined with very significant profile mouths, darker than the lip itself, proliferatedAmong the tops of the time.
So until today, where everything is worth - from a Helen Mirren Seventañera with Smoky Eyes and pink lips to a Selena Gomez with total look on the cover of her latest album- for the attempt to tear down stereotypes mentionedof real freedom also in terms of makeup.
Because, as Lisa Eldridge, British Makeup maker of the History of Beauty in the conclusion of her book 'Face Paint': "Nothing to both a woman and the right to education and the freedom to choose whether to wear a red lipstickAnd a smoked eye ... or not do it. "
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