The eyes are the new lips;Makeup in the new normality

  • By:jobsplan

21

06/2022

After the mask

More practical, individualized, focused on the look and with textures resistant to the rubbing of masks

Sylvia Martí

The makeup has returned to the streets and recovers the illusion adapting to the new social uses.Traditional entrance door to the aspirational universe of luxury, keeps intact its ability to reaffirm self -confidence and upload morality but, after months of confinement, admire as essential and perfect.With a screen between us and the world, there has been something liberating in parking the requirement never written to always be impeccable and magazine.

A touch of antiors and mask of eyelashes and a colorful lipOld saying that eyes are the mirror of the soul.And we will have to learn to smile with them.Practice Duchenne's smile, in which the eyes smile at the same time as the mouth.In it, they explain from Lancôme, muscles intervene that are activated involuntarily and that do not participate in the courtesy smiles.

Distrustful beauty wants to be fun and playful, as always, although the shopping experience is not the same and the virtual tools that, almost as a game, allow to see how we look like a shadow, a base tone, a base tone, a shadow, a shadow.lipstick and even different forms of eyebrows.Open doors in stores but not to play - security is the first - but to receive a professional and expert advice, something increasingly valued."Personal contact will be fundamental," says Baltasar González, artistic director of Europe, Africa, India, the Middle East and Russia of M.A.C.

Emotional trends

The big brands are emphasizing their proposals.Does it make sense to talk about pre-pandemic makeup trends at this point?According to Baltasar González, no.“The future is complex and not very likely to be reduced to determined pre -keys.The great bet now is individualism, ”says the makeup artist.“The hypersexualized look, heir in a certain way of a patriarchal look on female beauty, gives way to a more personal reflection, which flees from aesthetics and dictated too homogeneous.Now the trends seek more than ever the emotional balance and adapt to the mood of each one, ”reflects Baltasar.“It is a liberating vision that rediscovers the self and no longer wants to resemble the fashion celebrity, but to celebrate the complexity of the image itself.You can make up a lot, little or nothing, but consciously, without having as a model an absurd perfection or wanting to be a clone of anyone, ”says the expert of M.A.C.

The eyes are the new lips, proclaims the Beauty world.Even in this pre -established ideas jump through the air.Goodbye to the Lipstick Index coined by Leonard Lauder in the first economic slowdown of this century.Although discussed, he turned the lipstick into an economic indicator: they raise the sales of the rouge when the economy goes wrong.Psychology applied to makeup converted almost into a gesture of survival or reaffirmation of will and strength against an uncertain future.It does not work anymore.You have to blame the happy mask.

What to look at

Los ojos son los nuevos labios; maquillaje en la nueva normalidad

The change of daily life makes us value things that previously went unnoticed.Textures with good fixation that hold the friction well and do not dirty the mask, long -lasting and easy to apply makeup baseDestiny ... Illuminators and Coloretes in pink tones, lavender and coral help achieve that good face that all (and all) we look for.How to get it without complicating life?Applying illuminator in the cheekbone bone and on top of the eyebrows, to highlight the arc, to give a touch of light and enhance the look.

Also with a little imagination and sympathy: “Paint some freckles with a pencil of eyebrows on nose and cheeks, just above the mask, gives another air.The only rule is to do it with subtlety, with small touchs so that the result is more natural, ”proposes Baltasar González.A wink is admitted to humor: "Why not paint a smile on a disposable mask that will have to be thrown anyway at the end of the day?" The professional points out.A black and curly tab - if you still do not have a curling is the time to get one - increases the expressiveness of eyes, which, if you want, can display its wide repertoire of fantasy.

An optimistic look

When expressiveness is concentrated in the eyes you have to make them smile.“I would recommend delineating the eye inside and outside updating vital and optimistic colors, very eighty, such as indigo blue, electric, sailor, eggplant, emerald green ... There is life beyond black and brown! ”Says Baltasar."The slightly elongated shape, slightly lifting the outer end of the eyes," he says.

The eyeliner, that technique that your mother does almost without looking and it costs you to be worthy, only has one secret: practice. Test, error and start again. What to choose if you still don't master it? "The easiest thing is a pencil with a felt tip that releases the fair amount of product without thinking," says the makeup artist. "It must be something playful, enjoy, not slavery or do it because everyone takes it." His advice: "Apply it thinner inside and draw the thickest line abroad." Of course, "when the line, easier," he says. And with the firm pulse and without lifting the eye brush: "Every time you lift it there is more error risk." But we had not had to be perfect, remember? Applying the mask also has its point: "Rizard the tabs and apply the mask more intensely, with more layers, at the outer end of the eye," explains Baltasar González. His Instagram @Baltasaroficial is full of ideas.

New ways to buy

Nuevos protocolos, servicios de click & collect, clases on line, live chats y probadores virtuales de maquillaje ganan terreno en el nuevo paisaje de ventas post-virus. La experiencia de compra va a cambiar. “La estamos diseñando con servicios seguros y mucho más personalizados, utilizando tanto tecnología basada en inteligencia artificial como herramientas que permiten acercar a nuestros expertos al consumidor en el mundo virtual”, señala Ana Jaureguizar, directora general de la división L’Oréal Lujo. ModiFace, por ejemplo, permite pruebas de maquillaje con realidad aumentada a través de iPads en los puntos de venta o de los móviles de los consumidores. Después de desinfectar el dispositivo delante de la clienta, ésta podrá ver el antes y el después de la aplicación de un producto en su piel y recibir una propuesta de productos personalizada.

Benefit is another brand that bets on virtual dressing table with Brow Try-on, a resource that allows you to see how different eyebrow designs are, choosing color and shape, to succeed with the choice.And already involved in technology, we can also rely on the wearables.Perhaps one of the most practical for this year, with the skin little prepared to expose itself to an almost summery sun, be it in My Skin Track UV, of the Roche Posay.This mobile device, which does not need drums, is linked to an app and measures exposure to UV rays, pollution, pollen and other factors that aggregate the skin.

How to look better in a zoom?

In case teleworking and virtual meetings are still the order of the day, some professional advice is not worthy on the hard disk.Gisela Bosque, National Makeup Artist for Sephora Spain, shares some.“Place yourself where you receive natural light from the front or put a fair lamp after the screen to illuminate your face.It is important that the skin looks natural;A BB Cream with Soft Focus pigments or the makeup base, applied only where coverage is needed, greatly improves its appearance.The camera causes the eyes to seem smaller: “To get a more awake look, apply a clear shadow throughout the mobile eyelid, from the tear to the extreme.Then, extend a shadow in a tone identical to that of the skin, starting a centimeter of the tear to the external angle.This gives depth and highlights the tone of the iris, ”explains Sephora's makeup artist.

“Use a shadow, also nude, but two tones darker than the skin, on the orbital bone, marking the famous banana of the seventies.Looking in the front mirror, that color should be seen slightly above the eyelid.This trick is the most effective for the eyes to seem much bigger, ”she says."With a fine brush, apply this same color in the root of the lower eyelashes to create depth without looking makeup, and blur a soft illuminator under the eyebrow, especially affecting the arc," advises the expert.In front of the camera, the illuminator is the king: “It replaces the blush with a mega dose of illuminator, with iristed formulas and Glowy effect.Also apply it to the Arch of Cupid, the center of the upper lip, ”concludes Gisela Bosque.

What shades of shadow feel better at each eye color?The makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury follows the rule of opposites and complementary ones.“When you use opposite tones to the natural color of your iris, your eyes are filled with light and attract attention.If what you are looking for is a less contrasted makeup, opt for the tones similar to those of your eyes, ”she says.What matters?That you feel comfortable, comfortable, favored and not disguised with the result.

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The eyes are the new lips;Makeup in the new normality
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